Whether you are seeking a business lunch or an unhurried soiree a deux, Charles Graham-Wood’s restaurant tucked behind London’s meat market has the ambience to suit. By day, the corporate lunch dominates, but by night the atmosphere transforms into a soft, relaxed setting. Even the brick walls take on a warmer hue especially when the three piece band strikes up (saxophone, piano and double bass). Cuisine is of the highest quality and reasonably priced, so it is hardly surprising that even in the depths of recession you need to book. The colourful, Gitanes-smoking patron, whose family originate from the French gastronomique capital of Lyon, attends to his guests as though he were hosting a private dinner party. Set price three course menu, lunch and dinner £19, or £11 three course (no-choice) downstairs. Excellent house wine; the little known Vacqueyras from the Rhone valley £11. Only one sitting so you never feel rushed.